BOCUSE d’Or Gastronomy Contest 2019
Japan representative chef Hideki Takayama and
Komatsu ingredients weave a supreme marriage
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Executive Chefs “MAISON DE TAKA ASHIYA”HIDEKI TAKAYAMA
Born in 1977, from Fukuoka, Hideki Takayama began his path in French cuisine at the age of 18 where he gained experience working at Chef Noboru Inoue’s "CHEZ INNO”, an established restaurant in Kyobashi Tokyo, for about 8 years.
In 2004 he then moved to France to work as the head chef’s apprentice at prominent restaurants “Le Charlemagne”, “Lameloise” and “Regis et Jacques MARCON”.
After returning to Japan, Mr. Takayama was appointed as the head chef of “Maison de gill Ashiya”, where he won 5th place as a Japanese chef, in the “BOCUSE d’Or 2015”, receiving the “Special Fish Prize”.
Mr. Takayama then rose to executive producer of “MAISON DE TAKA ASHIYA” after their 2016 reopening and continued his success while becoming the 2nd representative of Japan and winning 7th place in the “BOCUSE d’ Or 2019”, thus becoming the best Asian chef, and 7th overall in the world.
Chef’s
Thoughts on
This Pairing
This event brings out the full supplication of the best ingredients from Komatsu City, handled by Chef Takayama, Japan’s representative of French cuisine.
In this event, he discusses his delicate pairing process, his meal, and sake by Noguchi.
“Wine goes very well French cuisine, which is the traditional beverage.
But Noguchi’s sake has a moderate, crisp flavor and acidity that matches well with French cuisine and an excellent balance to serve in between.
Even with my own dish, I was able to tell the different expressions with this pairing.” ~Chef Takayama
JUNMAI 2017,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKE Clam Bouillon broth, boiled with Junmai,with a scent of celery and citron
Chef Takayama said, “Steaming with sake is the best recipe for hard clams,”.
Hard clam bouillon has a soft and smooth flavor of umami, when only using nihonshu.
Paired with Vintage “Junmai 2017, Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake” which is not only used as an ingredient, but also served slightly chilled at 8℃. It balances perfectly with umami, that is gentle and modest, while never altering the full flavor of umami.
This sake gives a sense of nuance, like an oriental flower, harmonizing with the oriental flavors of yuzu.
JUNMAI 2017,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake
1st year vintage that has been aged for 1 year. It features a slightly aged, pleasant aroma.
There were a few vintages of the first year, and they were distributed only in Ishikawa prefecture.
When consuming, it has fine and silky, smooth texture giving it a slightly milky flavor.
It has a short lingering finish, that’s crisp to the taste.
YAMAHAI MIYAMANISHIKI 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKEOrganic Mille Crepe Sushi
Vegetables from Komatsu
Mille Crepe Sushi is colorfully layered with up to 23 layers of 10 different kinds of vegetables, such as spring beets and cabbage.
Paired with “YAMAHAI MIYAMANISHIKI 2018, Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake”, brewed by the YAMAHAI method, which is synonymous with the Toji, Noguchi Naohiko.
Selected to be served at 12℃, to best feature Miyamanishiki’s original flavor, while leaving a clean taste.
The herbal flavor harmonizes with condiments such as ginger and chervil, and characterizes an amazing pairing represented by Miyamanishiki.
YAMAHAI MIYAMANISHIKI 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKE
“MIYAMANISHIKI” has distinctive flavor, like a botanical herb.
It represents a special harmony with acidic taste of typical Yamahai brewing, with slightly umami flavor coming from the high degree rice polishing.
It features a fruity aroma, with a scent of natural mountains, and refreshing acidity maximizes a crisp, clean finish.
MIYAMANISHIKI is truly a sumptuous sake that could be paired with a variety of dishes, western or Japanese.
YAMAHAI JUNMAI 2017,
Unfiltered, Undiluted SAKEBisque De Homard, Saffron-flavored
“Noguchi’s sake has the charm of wrapping cuisine from around the world,” Says Chef Takayama.
The same vintage aged Sake “YAMAHAI JUNMAI 2017” was paired to the bisque, blending with the rich flavor of the homard in rice cream sauce, intentionally finished without adding the element of Japanese taste.
By slightly increasing the serving temperature to 14℃, the creaminess of the aftertaste is enhanced, the mellowness of the cream is mixed with the melted bisque to double the depth of flavor.
Taking advantage of the characteristics of YAMAHAI, which increases its acidity when warmed, it plays a crucial role in making the aftertaste of the Bisque transparent.
YAMAHAI JUNMAI 2017,
Unfiltered, Undiluted SAKE
First year vintage that has been aged for one year, with a matured aroma. The texture and taste reminds one of the softness and roundness of fresh cream, rich while slightly sour.
The aroma reminiscent of grains, and the mild acidity of strawberries.
In contrast to its profound taste, it leaves an exquisite finish in the throat.
YAMAHAI GOHYAKUMANGOKU 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKEGalette of Abalone and Bamboo Shoots
Eggplant Confit, flavored with Leaf Buds
The eggplant confit, which is a soft abalone steamed for about four hours, has the bitterness of leaf buds.
Featuring Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted, YAMAHAI GOHYAKUMANGOKU 2018, served at 42℃. By serving it lukewarm, it increases the amount of flavor that fully absorbs the abalone, which has been condensed.
The flavor of leaf buds combined with the distinctive acidity of YAMAHAI gives this dish a variety of flavors and combinations and makes it highly enjoyable.
YAMAHAI GOHYAKUMANGOKU 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKE
“GOHYAKUMANGOKU” is a rich sake, made by low polished rice which maximizes umami.
It features a sweet and sour citrus scent like orange peels, a creamy richness, and gentle acidity.
In contrast to its complexity and profound taste, it cleanses your mouth of the fat from the dish, leaving a crisp finish.
It is a sake that goes well with a main course, such as meat or eel, Japanese or western.
JUNMAI DAIGINJO 2017,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKEWarm Chartreuse Sauce Beurre Blanc
with Vegetables and Four Types of Shellfish
Chartreuse, a warm cake made from seasoned vegetables, is a specialty of Chef Takayama.
Served with a rich sauce, beurre blanc, which is prepared by boiling down mussels, scallops, clams, and oysters.
At the “BOCUS d’Or 2019,” this plate was entered by the chef to represent Japan.
This dish propelled Chef Takayama to receive the honor of placing 7th in the world, and best in Asia.
Originally for wine, this dish goes well with Chardonnay, though the Chef decided to pair the dish with “JUNMAI DAIGINJO 2017”. Its served in a white wine glass at a slightly higher temperature set at 14℃, to maximize the sweetness of rice with gorgeous aroma.
JUNMAI DAIGINJO 2017,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SAKE
A scent that is reminiscent of tropical fruits such as golden pineapple; with a refined, rich, and fresh sweetness and a refreshing acidity and texture.
It has a clean and fresh flavor, with elegant balance with gentle umami and scent.
It features a long lingering finish and a beautiful crisp aftertaste.
HONJOZO 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SakeRed Miso scented Black Beef Loin
with Seasonal Vegetables
HONJOZO 2018, Unfiltered, unpasteurized, undiluted sake brought to a temperature of 30℃ is added to Japanese Beef Loin, which is marinated in red miso, to increase the savoriness and sweetness of the dish.
This sake maximizes its crispness when warmed to 30℃, which softly cleanses the tender grease, but leaving a slight umami.
Excellent harmony with fermented red miso with the same subtle umami taste.
HONJOZO 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake
Noguchi’s HONJOZO is a popular classic product that has been refined more many years.
It has a refreshing fruity flavor similar to pears, and exquisitely balanced with incredibly clean and refreshing mineral taste.
It is a versatile course sake that has been highly rated by sushi chefs and washoku chefs.
Enjoyable not only chilled, but can also be enjoyed at lukewarm temperatures around 40℃, featured with mild umami and less bitterness.
JUNMAI 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted SakeFresh Sour Violet Strawberry Tuile,
Fragrant Sake Lees Cream with Coconut Grass
Chef Takayama has said, “I would have liked to start with junmai, home-grown sake, locally produced in Komatsu, and then completed by the same Junmai as the first sake.”
An adult dessert that uses sake lees for cream, reducing the sweetness slightly, to give it a refreshing taste.
“Junmai 2018, Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake” is added to this dish, which is accented with a bitter-sweet caramel sauce and sour berry sauce.
With the same floral nuance and milkiness as before, this sake is able to balance the sourness of the berry sauce chilled at 12℃, (hana-bie) with refreshing taste.
JUNMAI 2018,
Unfiltered, Unpasteurized, Undiluted Sake
Only rice cultivated by farmers near the brewery is used. It is a sake that you can feel the terroir using rice that is grown from the same environments of the fresh water source and clean air.
With fragrance reminiscent of oriental flowers, this sake has a silky-smooth texture and milky richness.
It can be enjoyed with lightly seasoned western meals, such as vegetable dishes, or fish dishes.
